Sealcoating basics.
What does sealcoating actually do?
Sealcoating is a protective coat brushed or sprayed over the asphalt surface. It seals out water, blocks UV, and resists oil and gas drips — the three things that take asphalt apart over time. It doesn’t fix structural problems. It doesn’t smooth low spots. What it does is keep the binder in your asphalt from breaking down, so the driveway lasts two to three times longer before it has to be replaced.
How often should I sealcoat my driveway?
Every two to three years in northern New Jersey. Less than that and you’re not getting full protection. More than that and the sealer builds up, then cracks and peels. Two to three years is the sweet spot.
How long does a sealcoat job take?
One residential driveway, one crew, one day for the application. Then 24 to 48 hours of cure time before you drive on it. Larger commercial lots may take two days, and we phase them so you never lose the entire lot at once.
I just had my driveway paved. When can I sealcoat it?
Wait six months to a year, or get through one winter, before sealcoating new asphalt. New asphalt needs time for excess oils to cook out of the surface. Sealcoat too early and the bond won’t hold.
Crack filling.
What size cracks do you fill?
Cracks 3/8 inch up to about 1 inch are standard hot-pour sealant work, excluding pavement edges. Cracks wider than 1 inch get Crafco Mastic One — a heavier, polymer-modified pourable asphalt — and that’s billed as a separate line item on your estimate.
Do you fill hairline cracks?
No. Hairline cracks are too narrow for sealant to flow into. Most hairlines are caused by previous sealcoats applied with under-spec’d material that didn’t have enough flexibility — they show through whatever you put on top. New sealer won’t hide them, but it will protect the asphalt around them.
Will I see the crack-fill lines after sealcoating?
You’ll see a faint shadow under the sealer where the filler is. That shadow is unavoidable — different materials reflect light differently. It’s far better than letting the cracks worsen until the driveway fails. Crack-fill shadows aren’t a defect; they’re a sign the work was done.
Timing & weather.
What time of year do you sealcoat?
Spring through fall, as long as ground and air temperatures are above 50°F and there’s no rain in the forecast for 24 hours. We don’t sealcoat in winter — the bond won’t hold and the cure won’t finish.
When can I drive on it?
After 24 to 48 hours, depending on the weather. Cooler, more humid days take longer to cure. We tell you the exact window when we’re packing up.
What if it rains right after you seal?
We watch the forecast and don’t seal if rain is coming within the cure window. If a sudden storm hits a freshly sealed driveway, the sealer can wash thin in spots — we’d come back and re-do the affected areas at no charge under the warranty.
How long does cure take in cool weather?
In the 50s and 60s with high humidity, plan on the full 48 hours. In the 70s and 80s with low humidity, 24 hours is usually enough. Direct sun helps. We’d rather give you the conservative estimate than the optimistic one.
Prep & aftercare.
Do I need to do anything before you arrive?
Move the cars, move the trash cans, and let us know about automatic sprinklers so we can shut them down. If you recently fertilized the lawn or had mulch delivered, give the driveway a power-wash a few days before we arrive — fertilizer and mulch can react with sealer and cause discoloration.
I see tire marks on my newly sealed driveway. Is the job bad?
No. That’s the sand in the sealer doing what it’s supposed to do. We mix sand into the sealer for traction and durability. A few surface grains roll out under the first vehicle traffic, leaving light tire marks. Those marks fade within about four weeks. Take light, wide turns for the first month and skip the K-turns. Tire marks can’t be repaired, so go easy.
Can I park on it as soon as it’s dry to the touch?
No. Dry to the touch isn’t the same as cured. Wait the full 24 to 48 hours we tell you. Drive on it early and you’ll lift sealer with the tires.
What about leaves that fall on wet sealer?
Don’t worry about it. Leaves that land on fresh sealer may stick for a day or two but blow off or break down without harming the surface.
What kind of snow shovel can I use over winter?
Plastic, not metal. A metal shovel or scraper will gouge a freshly sealed driveway. A plastic blade slides over it without damage. Same applies to ice picks and chippers — keep them off the surface.
Pricing & process.
How do you price a job?
We measure on site. Sealcoating is priced by square footage. Crack fill is priced by linear foot. Patching is priced by square foot of the repair. You get a written quote with each line itemized — no all-in lump sums where you don’t know what you’re paying for.
How fast do you respond to estimate requests?
Within one business day. If you submit on a Friday afternoon, you’ll hear back Monday morning. Same with voicemails.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. We carry general liability and workers’ comp insurance, we’re licensed in New Jersey, and we’re BBB accredited. Certificates of insurance are available on request — property managers, ask for one before the job and we’ll send it.
What forms of payment do you take?
Cash and check. Commercial accounts can be set up on Net 30 terms after a credit check.
Do you require a deposit?
Not for residential jobs. Payment is due on completion. Larger commercial jobs may require a deposit; that’s spelled out in the contract before we schedule.
Warranty.
What’s the warranty on residential sealcoating?
Two-year written warranty against premature wear, peeling, or flaking when the sealer is applied per spec. Full terms, exclusions, and the claims process are on the warranty page.
Is there a warranty on crack fill?
No. Crack fill is a treatment, not a permanent repair — the asphalt around it keeps moving with each freeze-thaw cycle. The warranty covers the sealer above the crack fill (when sealcoating and crack fill are done together), but not the fill itself.
What’s the warranty on patching?
Two-year guarantee on hot cut-and-patch and infrared repairs where the underlying base is sound. If the base has failed, no patching method will hold long-term and we’ll tell you that during the assessment. Full terms on the warranty page.
How do I file a warranty claim?
Email us within 10 days of noticing the issue, with photos. We’ll come out, inspect, and either repair under warranty or explain in writing why the issue falls outside the terms. Full process on the warranty page.
The sealer matters more than the contractor will tell you.
If you’re trying to figure out what kind of sealer is going on your driveway and why, that whole conversation lives on our materials page. Includes the spec we apply (R-P-355e), the honest answer on coal-tar safety and regulation, and why we brush-apply instead of spray.
Question we didn’t answer?
Call us. We’d rather answer than have you guess.